
As one of New Zealand’s most prestigious sporting and racing events, Barfoot & Thompson Champions Day is the perfect occasion to showcase bold millinery, whether you opt for a sculptural fascinator, a classic wide-brim hat, or a modern headband with intricate details.
The one person who’ll be looking for the most eye-catching headwear on the day is well-known Kiwi milliner and one of the day’s The Ned Prix de Fashion judges, Jill Humphries.
Humphries has been creating award-winning millinery for around 13 years, a passion that stems from a love of fashion which runs in her blood.
“My dad worked in the fashion industry in New Zealand, and because it was in our family, that’s what got me into it.”
But she was working in marketing and sponsorship in Australia when the idea of creating beautiful millinery came to life.
“I found myself at the Melbourne Cup and had spent a huge amount of money on a hat that was very uncomfortable and very expensive. I also wanted to pick up a hobby and discovered there was a course I could do, so I joined an evening class, went to a couple of sessions on learning the basics, and I was hooked.”
When the GFC hit, her marketing work started to dry up, so she turned her attention to fine-tuning her newly found skills and turning them into something more.
“The first hat that I ever sold won that following weekend, so then people were asking who I was and started following me.”
“With my marketing background, I was an early adopter of things like Facebook and Instagram, so I set that up straight away and built a following quite quickly, which just keeps growing every year.”
Just a year into her journey, Humphries went on to win the Myer Millinery Award.
“That was a massive surprise, but it really pushed me to the forefront of the industry in Australia and helped build a business.”
She now has a bricks-and-mortar store in Melbourne and has been featured in the likes of Vogue and Marie Claire and showcased her designs at numerous Australian Fashion Weeks.
Humphries says the journey so far has been an absolute privilege, but at times, it hasn’t been easy to navigate.
“It’s not an industry that people are really aware of, so suddenly, when you become a person within it, you don’t really know where to turn or how to find suppliers. There’s no free information about how to grow a millinery business.”
“The industry is very traditional, so it’s difficult to find things, for example, like hat blocks, because many of the best ones are antiques.”
Humphries says new trends emerge every year, but when it comes to millinery, it’s the classic looks that always stand the test of time.
“At the moment, I’m working on a fedora, and with things like that, you can never go wrong because they just work with everything.”
“Over the years, feathers have made a comeback and are being incorporated into millinery in a completely different and more edgy way, so that’s a new trend that’s come through.”
Humphries says the boater style has had a big resurgence and is a trend that has held steady for several years.
“Especially now that we have categories like ‘best suited’. People are also looking for fedoras, trilbies, and angular cut shapes.”
“In the last season, I’ve pulled through some really amazing shapes that are very New York style—very sharp wedge shapes that elongate people, making them look taller and just a bit more edgy.”
She says people are favouring smaller, sharp pieces, but when it comes to colour, Humphries prefers to stay away from trends.
“I find that every year the Pantone Colour of the Year comes out, and everyone gets really excited about it. This year, we can’t because it’s mocha, which is no fun for anyone.”
While many people like to match their accessories to their headpiece, she prefers to convince them to opt for something with a bit of contrast.
“Doing all one colour can be quite bland. I try to educate people on how things have changed from old-school racing, when people used to match their hat, bag, and shoes. Now, I think the trend is contrast and texture.”
“Because when I look at people’s racewear, I don’t want to see a trend on stage – I want to see their personality coming through.”
Humphries says if you’re wearing a suiting style, you can’t go past a fedora, but if you’re wearing a dress, it depends on the neckline.
“A side-fitting classic beret is fantastic because they suit almost everybody. They sit to the side of the head really comfortably, but they also draw your eye upwards, making you look taller. We all love a little bit of that.”
The other detail she says you can’t go past is veiling.
“Veiling always softens a person’s look, especially if you’re a little bit older. Adding it across the eye can create a little bit of mystery, and it’s a great way of adding texture too.”
Humphries says her preference is when someone comes to her with a clear idea of what they’re going to wear.
“There’s nothing worse from a milliner’s point of view than when someone walks in unsure of what they want, because it just makes the process so much longer.”
“If people can come to me with a dress, then I can see the silhouette. I can look at the person’s face and body shape, and then work from there.”
She says it’s always much easier to colour-match if you start with the outfit.
“I’ve had people who’ve bought an amazing red or pink hat, thinking it’ll be easy to match to an outfit. But those colours have so many different hues and tones that it can actually be really hard to find something that works.”
As a judge on the day, Humphries says she’ll be looking for ‘personality plus’.
“I don’t like looking at a contrived look – I like the person to show me their personality through their clothing and look like it was effortless. I don’t want it to look like they’ve studied what others have done before and tried to replicate it.”
She also believes there’s a lot to be said for telling a story through your outfit.
“Try incorporating some history. This year, we’re seeing more textured elements coming in through jewellery and things like brooches, so raid your grandma or mum’s collection and incorporate pieces that are personal.”
“It’s not just about the dress and the hat – I want to feel a connection to you and why your outfit is important.”
Humphries also says if you’re going to wear a trend, it’s important to make sure the trend doesn’t wear you.
“Make sure that what you’re wearing is right for your body shape, the weather, and the climate. Mocha might be the colour of the moment, but it might be the wrong shade for your skin tone.”
As for her golden piece of advice to get the most out of the day?
“Just be there to have a great time with no expectations. Go in thinking you’re going to have a fantastic day in the sun, and with that mindset, you’ll keep a smile on your face.”
The Ned Prix de Fashion, New Zealand’s national racewear final, is taking place here at Ellerslie on Barfoot & Thompson Champions Day, 8 March 2025.
To be able to make it into the big finale, first you must qualify. Those people who have not won a qualifying competition this season are still in with a chance – the ForEVER Sophie Permanent Jewellery Fashion Qualifiers, held on the day*, will see four women each secure the last spots in The Ned Prix de Fashion and take home a $1,000 prize from that competition’s partner.
From there, there will join other prequalified contestants on the runway for judging of The Ned Prix de Fashion which offers a $15,000 winner-takes-all prize package from The Ned (including a bespoke millinery headpiece created by Jill Humphries (Millinery Jill) under her Black Label brand to the value of $1500), SkyCity Auckland and Tan in the City.
*Entry into this competition is free for racegoers aged 18yr+ (entry conditions apply) with entries taken on the day between 11am – 12.45pm on the fashion lawn by the main driveway.